Asic Bitcoin Mining Usb - Good luck to those who still try ...
10 ASIC Bitcoin GUI Mining Software For Microsoft Windows ...
Bitcoin Mining Pool Bitcoin.com
How to create NiceHash OS bootable flash drive? NiceHash
My Experience: From FX-8350 to R7-1700
Upgrading from an FX-8350 to a R7-1700. Just a bit about me – I have been building computers since the mid 80’s. I missed the 8-inch floppy disk era, but came on board when dual 5.25” was considered mainstream and a 10-megabyte full-height HDD was the mark of a power user. The first computer I built for my own enjoyment was an AMD X5-133 (a factory overclocked 486 faster than the Pentium-75), and I’ve used a wide variety of systems since then, including a Pentium Pro-200 which served me well in college and a K6-2 which I took to quite a few LAN parties. While I’ve always had Intel notebooks, my PC’s have been AMD for quite some time now. I decided to upgrade my current main machine, which is an FX-8350 with a mild 4.4Ghz overclock. I was using 2x8GB Crucial Ballistix DDR3-1600 and a Sapphire Radeon Fury Nitro. While I know the R5-1600x would be a better bet for a pure gaming build, I have a soft spot for 8-core machines. I had been tempted to pull the trigger on an i7-7700k for a while, but the timing never worked out. But when I found the R7-1700 at a deep discount and an X370 motherboard on the shelf next to it – I couldn’t resist the siren call of a new build. Here are my thoughts about the process: AM4 is physically the same as AM3 from a build perspective, except for the mounting holes. I don’t know what was so important about making the holes have different offsets, but this makes it much more difficult to get quality cooling. Not all manufacturers have brackets yet, and I’m still waiting on Cooler Master to release the brackets for my Siedon 240. The new motherboard feels very different from my AM3 board. My FX-8350 sat on an ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0. It was, for lack of a better word, a very workstation-ish board. 4 PCIx16 slots, 10x USB ports (2 of the USB 3.0), triple USB 2.0 front panel headers (and a USB 3.0 front panel header as well), eSATA on the rear panel, beefy VRM and Northbridge cooling, Toslink output for audio, and so on. The board itself is full of tiny components, support chips, and ports. Granted, many of these connectors are outdated (eSATA and USB2.0), and the PCIe is only 2.0 instead of current-gen 3.0, but there is a LOT of connectivity. Few people paired an FX chip with triple of quad-GPU for gaming, but I know a fair number of people used these for bitcoin mining back before there was widespread ASIC support and back then GPU mining was the most cost-effective way to mint cryptocurrency. Extra PCIe slots could be used for dedicated video capture, PCI-based storage, a RAID card, etc... Having 4 full-size slots allows this kind of flexibility. The new motherboard is an Asrock Fatal1ty x370 Gaming K4. It does not feel very workstation-ish at all. It has only two 16x PCIe slots (and when they are both in use they are only 8x), 8 USB ports on the rear panel, and a much less “busy” motherboard. Very few support chips litter its surface. Instead of a workstation component, it feels much more like a luxury consumer product. This is not a bad thing – just something I noticed while building the system. The rear IO shield is red and black to match its gaming aesthetic, it includes things like premium audio (including a very nice headphone amplifier for the front panel connectors), and while it only has 8x USB ports on the back, 6 of them are USB 3.0 and two of them (including a type-C connector) are USB 3.1 gen2. It includes RGB LED’s under the chipset heatsink and three separate RGB LED controller ports (one of which is used for the boxed cooler), Intel gigabit Ethernet, and dual M.2 slots (one of which connected directly to the CPU). It is very different in “feel” from the older ASUS board, even down to things like a shroud for the external connectors and metal-reinforced PCI slots. I must say, its more aggressive appearance and near-empty areas appeal to me. It does, however, funnel the builder into a particular configuration: limited fast storage through the M.2 slots, slow(er) storage through the 6x SATA ports, all external devices should be USB 3. Personally, these limitations didn’t restrict me for this build, since that was how I was going to set it up anyway, but the fewer connectivity choices might cause some pause for others. The only thing I don’t like about this board is the 20 second POST times. 20 seconds every time. Resuming from sleep is very fast, just reboots are slow. That’s really it. I have no substantive complaints other than that – well, and the memory speed limitations – more on that below. The Wraith Spire cooler is without doubt the best looking box cooler I’ve ever seen. The symmetrical cylinder look, combined with the LED logo and RGB ring are very striking. I can see why many people have asked to order one, though I think for the 1700X and 1800X they are better off without it. I’ll explain why further down. Initial hardware setup was very easy. I was able to flash to the newest 2.0 BIOS without any hassle using a DOS USB flash boot drive. The 2.0 BIOS has the newest AGESA code from AMD, as well as support for the R5 processors and better DDR4 compatibility. I didn’t want to cheap out on RAM since apparently Ryzen is sensitive to DDR4 speeds for the latency between cores. I bought the cheapest 16GB DDR4-3200 kit I could find (the EVGA SuperSC 2x8GB), for which I paid $115. While I was not able to get it to boot at 3200, I could get 2933 simply by activating XMP, then manually changing the speed from 3200 to 3000. I then tested it with MemTest86 for two complete cycles, which it passed without errors. I have encountered zero memory issues with these RAM sticks running at 2933. Since this motherboard does not officially support DDR4-3200 at all, I figure this is a good outcome. I am curious to know whether anyone has gotten 3200 on this board – that is, whether the lack of 3200 memory on Asrock’s QVL is a marketing issue or an actual hardware limitation – but I didn’t want to spend nearly double that amount in order to get AM4 verified memory (G.Skill’s FlareX), and 2966 seemed fast enough from the benchmark results I had read. My old setup had a Samsung 850 EVO 256gb SATA6 drive as the primary boot/gaming drive. It seemed plenty fast but it had become too small for my needs, so this seemed like a good opportunity to buy a new SSD. I originally thought the NVMe drives would be out of my price range, but I bought the Intel 600p 512GB drive for only $10 more than I would have paid for a premium SATA6 drive. Though the 600p is without doubt the SLOWEST NVMe drive out there, it has 3x the read speed as the SATA6 drives, and most of what I am doing with it is trying to get quicker load times. If I was using it for professional workloads (as a video editing scratch drive, for example), I would need much higher sustained write speeds and then Samsung would be the obvious answer. I just didn’t want to spend an extra $80 on write performance that I’d never notice, and the 600p has been an excellent boot/gaming drive. Ok, back to the Wraith Spire. I tend to have bad luck with the silicon lottery. My FX-8350 was not able to be stable above 4.4Ghz with reasonable temperatures. I was hoping I would be able to get better results from the R7-1700, since general reports indicated that it overclocked well. Unfortunately, it is difficult to tell how good of an overclock I am getting since I can find no good information about maximum recommended temperatures for this chip. Some people say 75c is the maximum safe temp. Others say 75c is a fine everyday 24/7 temp. Others say they are running it at 80c all the time without any issues at all. Steve at Techspot was getting 88c and 90c when overclocking the 1600X and 1500X using the stock coolers and without any instability – were those dangerous temps or totally fine? Nobody seems to know. I like my overclocks to be set-and-forget. I want to get it dialed in and then leave it for years without worrying that it will burn up or degrade or that in this or that application I have to turn back to stock speeds because of the thermals. Since I don’t know what max safe thermals are, I just have to guess based on stock thermals. For stock speeds, the Wraith Spire does a good job. It is very quiet, and after a few BIOS fan-curve tweaks, it keeps the chip around 35-38 at idle, and around 68-70 on Prime95 (Small FFT, for maximum temperature generation). Incidentally, it also hits 70 if I run Cinebench a bunch of times in a row as well, so I don’t consider the Small FFT test to be totally unrealistic for the load this chip might encounter. From what I can tell, these are good normal temps. I can get 3.5Ghz by simply changing the multiplier and leaving the voltage at stock. This gives Cinebench numbers around the 1550 mark (roughly 6900k levels). Prime95 shows a modest boost in temperatures of 3-4 degrees C, and was stable even for several hours. If I push it to 3.6Ghz at stock voltage the system is unstable. At 3.7Ghz (the 1700’s boost speed for single-threaded loads) it is stable only if I give it 1.3v. While that is a totally fine voltage (AMD recommends up to 1.35v for 24/7), the Wraith Spire cannot handle a Prime95 Small FFT load anymore. I shut down the test and reverted the OC when the CPU read 89c. Given the fact that the Spire was meant to cool a 65w chip (and so probably is rated at no more than 85-95w), this is not a terribly surprising temperature – I wish I knew if it was dangerous. I have no doubt that a 240mm radiator or even a decent tower cooler will be more than enough to cool down my 3.7Ghz R7-1700. I am a little jealous of the people who just set the multiplier to 3700 and are good to go – lower voltages probably mean the Spire would be enough. But for me, it was not to be. I was halfway tempted to see at what temperature the chip would reduce its clock speed, but I didn’t want to burn up a chip I had just bought – might as well wait until I get bigger and better cooling to OC it to the 3.8-3.9 I hope it will reach. Other than the OC temps it has been smooth sailing. Gaming feels more fluid than with the FX, even in games that I always thought were GPU-limited and/or running at 60fps with VSYNC on. Especially games that are sensitive to single-core performance (Heroes of the Storm is my latest addiction) there is a definite boost in 1% low and 0.1% low FPS. I have been using the Ryzen Balanced power plan from AMD and it seems to do a fantastic job keeping temps low when idle and letting the cores ramp up really fast when needed. I need to test whether the lack of core parking prevents it from hitting the 3.7Ghz boost as much as the regular Balanced plan allows. I think a simple CineBench single-thread comparison will do the trick. I also tried streaming a bit – and it was able to generate 1080p60fps at x264-medium settings without being noticeable while in game. Later I edited some video of my kids – the final render speed was SOOOO fast. I am, on the whole, very happy with my upgrade. I get better single-core performance, much much better multi-core performance, along with faster disk speeds, and a more modern platform (with RGB lighting, M.2, USB 3.1, etc…). Now if only I could find out appropriate temperatures…..
New people please read this. [upvote for visibility please]
I am seeing too many new people come and and getting confused. Litecoin wiki isn't the greatest when it comes to summing up things so I will try to do things as best as I can. I will attempt to explain from what I have learned and answer some questions. Hopefully people smarter than me will also chime in. I will keep this post updated as much as I can. Preface Litecoin is a type to electronic currency. It is just like Bitcoin but it there are differences. Difference explained here. If you are starting to mine now chances are that you have missed the Bitcoin mining train. If you really want your time and processing power to not go to waste you should mine LTC because the access to BTC from there is much easier. Mining. What is it? Let's get this straight. When making any financial commitment to this be prepared to do it with "throw away" money. Mining is all about the hashrate and is measured in KH/s (KiloHash/sec). Unlike the powerful ASICs (Application Specific Integrated Circuit) that are used to mine bitcoins using hashrates in the GH/s and even TH/s, litecoin mining has only been able to achieve at the very best MH/s. I think the highest I've seen is 130 MH/s so far. Which leads us to our next section. Mining Hardware While CPU mining is still a thing it is not as powerful as GPU mining. Your laptop might be able to get 1 a month. However, I encourage you to consult this list first. List of hardware comparison You will find the highest of processors can maybe pull 100 KH/s and if we put this into a litecoin mining calculator it doesn't give us much. Another reason why you don't want to mine with your CPU is pretty simple. You are going to destroy it. So this leaves us with GPUs. Over the past few months (and years) the HD 7950 has been the favourite because it drains less power and has a pretty good hashrate. But recently the introduction of the R9 290 (not the x) has changed the game a bit. People are getting 850 KH/s - 900 KH/s with that card. It's crazy. Should I mine? Honestly given the current difficulty you can make a solid rig for about $1100 with a hashrate of 1700 KH/s which would give you your investment back in about a month and a half. I am sure people out there can create something for much cheaper. Here is a good example of a setup as suggested by dystopiats PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.
Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-11-29 00:52 EST-0500
Estimated Hashrate (with GPU overclocking) : 1900 KH/s Hardware Fundamentals CPU - Do you need a powerful CPU? No but make sure it is a decent one. AMD CPUs are cheap to buy right now with tons of power. Feel free to use a Sempron or Celeron depending on what Motherboard you go with. RAM - Try to get at least 4 GB so as to not run into any trouble. Memory is cheap these days. I am saying 4 GB only because of Windoze. If you are plan to run this on Linux you can even get away with less memory. HDD Any good ol 7200 RPM hard drive will do. Make sure it is appropriate. No point in buying a 1TB hard drive. Since, this is a newbie's guide I assumed most won't know how to run linux, but incase you do you can get a USB flash drive and run linux from it thus removing the need for hard drive all toghether. (thanks dystopiats) GPU - Consult the list of hardware of hardware I posted above. Make sure you consider the KH/s/W ratio. To me the 290 is the best option but you can skimp down to 7950 if you like. PSU - THIS IS BLOODY IMPORTANT. Most modern GPUs are power hungry so please make sure you are well within the limits of your power consumption. MOTHERBOARD - Ok, so a pretty popular board right now is Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 and the ASRock 970 Extreme4. Some people are even going for Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 and even the mighty Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 because it has more PCI-E slots. 6 to be exact. However you may not need that much. With risers you can get more shoved into less. PCI-E RISERS - These are called risers. They come in x16 to x16 and x1 to x16 connections. Here is the general rule of thumb. This is very important. Always get a POWERED riser otherwise you will burn a hole in your MoBo. A powered rise as a molex connector so that additional power from PSU can be supplied. When it comes to hardware I've provided the most basic knowledge you need. Also, take a look at cryptobader's website. This is very helpful. Please visit the mining section of Litecoin Forums and the litecoinmining subreddit for more indepth info. Mining Software Now that you have assembled your hardware now you need to get into a pool. But before you do that you need a mining software. There are many different ones but the one that is most popular is cgminer. Download it and make sure you read the README. It is a very robust piece of software. Please read this if you want to know more. (thanks BalzOnYer4Head) Mining Pools Now that your hardware and software is ready. I know nothing about solo mining other than the fact that you have to be very lucky and respectable amount of hashing power to decrypt a block. So it is better to join pools. I have been pool hopping for a bit and really liked give-me-coin previously known to the community as give-me-ltc. They have a nice mobile app and 0% pool fees. This is really a personal preference. Take a look at this list and try some yourself. How do I connect to a pool? Most pools will give you a tutorial on how to but the basics are as follows:
Signup for a pool
Create a worker for your account. Usually one worker per rig (Yes people have multiple rigs) is generally a good idea.
Create a .run file. Open up notepad and type cgminer.exe -o (address_to_the_miningpool:port_number) -u (yourusername.workername) -p (your_worker_password_if_you_made_one). Then File>Save As>runcgminer.run (Make sure the drop down is set to "All Files" and .txt document.) and save in the same folder as cgminer. That's it.
Double click on runcgminer.run (or whatever you named it) and have fun mining.
Mining Profitability This game is not easy. If it was, practically everyone would be doing it. This is strictly a numbers game and there are calculations available that can help you determine your risk on your investments. 4 variables you need to consider when you are starting to mine: Hardware cost: The cost of your physical hardware to run this whole operation. Power: Measured in $/KwH is also known as the operating cost. Difficulty rate: To put it in layman's terms the increase in difficulty is inversely proportional to amount of coin you can mine. The harder the difficulty the harder it is to mine coin. Right now difficulty is rising at about 18% per 3 days. This can and will change since all you miners are soon going to jump on the band wagon. Your sanity: I am not going to tell you to keep calm and chive on because quiet frankly that is stupid. What I will tell you not to get too carried away. You will pull you hair out. Seriously. Next thing you will need is a simple tool. A mining profitability calculator. I have two favourite ones. coinwarz I like this one cause it is simple. The fields are self explanatory. Try it. bitcoinwisdom I like this one because it is a more real life scenario calculator and more complicated one (not really). It also takes increasing difficulty into account. Please note: This is the absolute basic info you need. If you have more questions feel free to ask and or google it! More Below.
this is updated version of SLAX miner, old post is here Features :
only need minimal 512 MB USB FlashDisk
can run with unplugged flash disk, since SLAX can copy itself to run from computer RAM
built-in cgMiner-3.7.2 with support for GPU scrypt or SHA256 mining
built-in yvg1900 protoshares miner (all 64-bit variation of CPU)
built-in bfgMiner-3.9.0 (untested)
minimal installation only x.org, blackbox, and google chrome desktop
How To Install :
1. Extract the content of .7z to formatted flash disk with FAT32 Partition
2. Run [FLASHDISK]\slax\boot\bootinst.bat (on linux run bootinst.sh)
3. Boot from it (make sure persistence changes or checked)
4. run /opt/radeon-setup/radeon-setup.sh if your system have AMD GPU installed
How To Run :
miner software are located at /opt/cgminer, /opt/bfgminer, /opt/ptsminer
you can run example script /opt/cgminestart-cgminer or /opt/ptsminestart-ptsminer
copy those scripts and apply your on settings and mining pool account
to update gui shortcut you can edit /usshares/blackbox/menu to point to your script
to connect from remote, use ssh client such as putty, login with "root", password "toor"
added Google Chrome browser
added graphics text editor (xedit) and calculator (xcalc)
added bfgMiner (untested, since its not compiled for gpu support, and i dont have any ASIC or USB miner)
added script to install AMD driver, run /opt/radeon-setup/radeon-setup.sh on first boot to install AMD GPU
added vim for terminal text editor
added tmux for terminal screen management
added broadcom wireless driver (tested on my macbook)
added intel wireless driver (untested, i dont have any)
added bluetooth driver (just in case)
updated AMD Catalyst to 13.8
updated protominer to use yvg1900 latest miner (yam 2014-01-02)
AMD driver not activated by default, so it could boot to GUI on any GPU, you need to run /opt/radeon-setup/radeon-setup.sh at first boot, make sure to use persistent changes on first boot to apply driver installation
Dr Jally or: How I learned to stop worrying and love the ASIC.
I was a late comer to the bitcoin love, I started mining last summer, nothing major, have never had more than 600Mh/s to my name really... but on a whim I ordered a Jalapeno in late august, and then I tried to put it out of my mind as everyone else fought over if BFL would ever ship or not, etc.... I just figured that worst case, the money was gone really... lo and behold, it arrived about 3 weeks ago, let me briefly share a few things, as some of my tinkering and experiments may benefit others:
I got the non-heatpipe heatsink version, standard edition (5gh I think is the marketed speed?)... did not pay for the upgrade to 7...
Unboxed and plugged in, I averaged out around 5.4gh and temps in the low 40s (41-43).. the thing sounded like a jet engine. No, seriously, I would have 3 systems going, and that little box was the loudest thing in the room.
At those rates, I ran the numbers, and determined my ROI period was 18 days. (My total out of pocket was $163, pre price hike). My plan was to mine back what I needed in BTC to pay for the device, plus a little extra (1.8 BTC was my total target).. then I started hearing about things one could do to push it a little further (remove from case, better fan, firmware upgrade to push faster, etc)... so I spent about $100 in parts (jtag programer, cable, torx bit, etc) and decided once my 1.8BTC was mined, it was open season on the hardware, warranty be damned... purely for science you understand.
Meanwhile I started accumulating orders for a couple Block Erupter USBs for ~1BTC each, because hashrate is a dangerous drug. I also tossed in a Raspberry Pi, case, some other odds and ends (powered usb hub, etc), with the intent to power down my watt guzzling GPU rig entirely, instead of it sitting there running just to feed the ASICs..
This past weekend I opened the little black box of mystery and had some fun:
Tore down, removed the heatsink. They used thermal pads that are not adhesive on the heatsink side, so I was able to remove HS without tearing the pads any. That said, repeated removal and putting it back, I think you run the risk of them tearing over time (I have a couple small tears in mine when I took it off the first time)..
I added some copper heatsinks (think Raspberry Pi heatsinks...) to the mosfest and a few other areas of the board that (to me) seemed to run hot.
Replaced the stock fan (I'd heard the horror stories of fans breaking) with a low profile Noctua (92mm fan for anyone who is pondering), and flipped the fan over to blow down into the heatsink.
I flashed the firmware to the stock 1.25 firmware that's floating around.. They say you need to watch that the chips don't overheat while you have it powered up to flash as you can't put the heatsink and the flash cable on at the same time.. I'll admit, I constructed a leaning tower of cooling (remember those little bronze heatsinks I mentioned? two of them right on top of the ASICS, OEM heatsink propped on top to hold them down) while I jtagg'd the microcontroller, and I was still very worried about heat (cable up everything except power, mouse over the "Erase!" button in jtag software, power up BFL, smash Erase... chips go idle... load the firmware image, push "Load", as soon as the LED started showing activity (chips powered!) I ripped the power back out.
I did all this in one sitting... maybe an hour total, most of that checking it out the inside and pondering what I was about to do.
I plugged everything back in, powered up my host... and noticed my jally was just flashing like crazy and my host couldn't see it. uh-oh. I powered it off, back on, and it was fine. Since then I've powered it off about 10-20 times, and twice it would go into "super fast flash like crazy but not work" mode. Simply unplugging and replugging would solve it. I have not dug into this at all, but I think it's failing to init or pass the boot up tests. There's word around town that you can tweak the firmware to push speed further or reduce the strictness of the tests it does, but I'm happy with what I've got, so I'm leaving it: Right now Other than to change coins or work on my host system (now that it's a raspberry pi I don't think I'll be changing it much more), it's been running non-stop at around that rate/temp since the weekend. Right now my little rPi host is bashing away, with the jally and three block erupters (I know they'll most likely never reach ROI for themselves by themselves, I just wanted to tinker, but still may add a couple more to break 10Gh total just for bonus points), the jally firmware "upgrade" everyone talks about is really designed for one of the other models (the bigger ones), and that's why I think it reports as "BFL 0h" or "BFL 0d" I assume "d" and "h" are the two ASIC spots on the jally board that actually have chips on them in the jally... I figure all in I'm looking at around... lets say $650 and 90 watts (max) total for ~8.29Gh/s... The erupters really distort my numbers right now, (without them it'd be more like $350 and 80 watts (max) for ~7.3Gh/s)... but again, hashrate is addictive. The jally power supply has always seemed to run hot to me, even before I pushed the update firmware, so I may try and find a biggebetter quality PS for it, and more erupters will sadly mean I need a new usb hub, as my current one is only rated for 5v 2A, and it has to be close to that with 3 erupters, the pi, and the usb fan. :/ So I guess I've still got more investment to go, but it's just a hobby, I can quit anytime, right? right? tl;dr edition (or what I learned, without the story):
Yes, the jally is loud, remove the case, flip the fan. Your temp will drop and (with a new quiet fan atleast, I can't vouch for the oem fan), it's much quieter. Use the "top" of the case as the new "bottom", and leave the sides and top off.
Yes, ASICs can mine alt-coins provided they are sha256 and don't change too much. I've done TRC, PPC, and FRC with the BFL/Erupter setup... I found one SHA256 recently that choked with rejects, I can't remember the name, but it was one of the recent new SHA256 based coins.
Yes, there's a firmware out there you can flash the Jally with to open it up from 5gh to the 7gh -> 8gh range. The 7gh model has (I believe), just a version of this newer firmware, no better chips necessarily , so if you buy the 7gh upgrade, you are probably not going to push it to 10g or something crazy with the firmware.. note that doing this does void your warranty as far as BFL is concerned.
Hashrate is addictive, no matter how much you have, you'll still want more.
[USA-FL][H] Chromebox with Kodi, Apple Laptop, Windows netbook, HP Microservers, Android tablet, Cell Phones, 3d Printers, Xbox 360, Other misc items. [W] Paypal, Google Wallet
I have a bunch of different items for sale. All items do not include shipping. Please PM me your zip and I will calculate shipping. I will consider best offer on anything. I will also consider trades however I do not need anything specific so would prefer cash. I have prices listed for Paypal. I prefer google wallet and will deduct paypal fees. All items come in original box. If you would like any additional pictures please let me know. I also have available a $50 Google Play Credit that I am looking to sell for $40 Google Wallet Only. Must be activated by tomorrow (31st). Will send code via PM right after payment. Chromebox
Chromebox with Kodi installed - $160 each 3 available. They are all brand new. I have it setup to boot to Kodi. No addons or extras preinstalled (But can install on own) just Kodi. I find these much faster and more stable then android.
Zotac Zbox with Kodi installed - $200 Dual core Intel Atom with Nvidia ION Video, 2gb memory, 32gb SSD, Bluray reader, Card Reader, HDMI and optical audio out. I have kodi installed on it now but can install windows or linux as you choose. I had this as a media streamer on my tv. Worked great.
ASUS EeeBook X205TA 11.6" Laptop with 2GB RAM 32GB Flash - $150 This laptop is Like New. I purchased to install Linux on and find out wifi on board is not compatible with linux. I did finally get arch installed but wound up getting something that was more compatible. Currently has Windows 10 installed and updated.
Macbook Pro - $700 13" Aluminum Macbook Pro Model MD101LL/A Includes 2 AC adapters and Orange hard plastic spec case. 2.5ghz Core i5 Processor, Upgraded to 16 gb ram, Upgraded 320gb 7200rpm Hard drive (for data), Upgraded 120gb SSD for the OS (Due to 2 Hard drives, the dvd drive has been removed but is included)
FlashForge Creator Pro - $850 Each I just completely ran through and cleaned both printers. I have tested both with Abs and Pla with a few various prints. Each will come with a new roll of Abs filament. All parts are included and printers are fully functional. (2 available)
[Troubleshooting] PC powers up, lights on, but no video output or USB, need some help.
As the title says, the PC is powering up (lights, fans, no beep codes), but there is no video output from the graphics card (gpu fan is spinning) and nothing happening with the USBs in the back (keyboard and mouse are not lighting up). I'm not entirely sure why this is happening. The mobo is an MSI 970A-G49, CPU is an AMD FX series, GPU is an MSI 7950, PSU is a Capstone 650w. There is no HDD, or DVD drive, as the flash drive has the OS. I haven't been able to load any drivers because of its lack of POST. Off a wim, I plugged in a USB bitfury bitcoin mining ASIC into the back panel and front panel USBs and the light is yellow, which I believe means it is not fully powered or something. but that may be irrelavant. Any ideas?
Asic Bitcoin Mining Usb! China Factory Cheap Price Asic Bitcoin Miner Bitmain Antminer S9j TH/s Jul 11, 2018 - These days, Bitcoin mining asic bitcoin mining usb revolves around these devices, with This extra efficiency comes at project director work from home a price, and this isn't the cheapest ASIC Why is it so hard to buy brand new ASIC bitcoin USB miners?! Alibaba.com offers 10,780 bitcoin mining asic usb products. About 1% of these are usb flash drives, 1% are other computer accessories, and 1% are multilayer pcb. A wide variety of bitcoin mining asic usb options are available to you, such as > 1000w, 901w - 1000w, and 401w - 500w. Start mining Bitcoin Cash or Bitcoin today! Supercharge your mining potential. Mine Bitcoin easily on the cloud without having to buy hardware, or plug your own hardware into the world’s highest paying mining pool. Sign up now Log in. Mine Bitcoin. We offer BTC and BCH mining. You can also choose to automatically mine the most profitable coin. Cloud Mining. Start mining immediately with our ... Alibaba.com offers 15,973 asic mining usb products. About 1% of these are other pcb & pcba, 1% are integrated circuits. A wide variety of asic mining usb options are available to you, such as > 1000w, 601w - 700w, and 801w - 900w. This video guide provides information on how to create a bootable flash drive with NiceHash OS using NiceHash OS Flash Tool. Now your USB flash drive is ready to be plugged in your mining rig! Join the smartest community in the world!
Should You Buy An Antminer USB Bitcoin ASIC Miner In 2020 ...
Just me showing off my new bitcoin miner. It may be small and not make much but it's great for someone looking to get into bitcoin and see if it's something they might like. New video up on actual ... GENESIS MINING Promo Code: eHS9yk FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/CryptoBitcoinTutorial Twitter: https://twitter.com/BitTutorial Like & Subscribe For More Videos! Find Out More Or Purchase Yours Here: http://amzn.to/13XgfEl Buy Cheap Games & Tech Here: http://amzn.to/13Ur6Pj dopesoner.... WANT FREE STOCK FAST? CLICK LINK And CLICK "SIGN UP NOW"! 💲💲💲 http://join.robinhood.com/jareds7 ALL VIDEOS ARE ONLY REPRESENTATIVE OF MY OPINION. ONLY INVEST... SUBSCRIBE FOR MORE HOW MUCH - http://shorturl.at/arBHL FutureBit MoonLander 2 - https://bitcoinmerch.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/futurebit-moonland...